This Is Why You're Going Gray, According to a Hair Expert

By Adam Cheung

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Look at photos of President Barack Obama before he took office. Now look at one after: there's a lot of gray hair. And that's understandable when you've the crushing mantle of Most Powerful Man On The Planet for eight years straight. But unbridled stress is not the only reason why you go gray.

According to a 2018 paper by the International Journal of Trichology, 50 per cent of the population will have about 50 per cent gray hair by the age of 50 (wowee, that's a lot of 50s). It's a complex topic that involves many factors, and if it's something that's bothering you, hair and scalp specialist Mark Birch has some sage advice if you want to delay the process.

This one shouldn't come as too much of a surprise, but having a clean and healthy scalp can directly influence the wellbeing of your hair—and also the color of it. You should wash your hair pretty regularly, and when you're looking for a shampoo or a conditioner, be sure to keep a close eye on the ingredients list.

“Shampoos, conditioners, and care products should contain natural active ingredients, and unnecessary chemicals and perfumes must be avoided.” says Birch. “By choosing high-quality and gentle hair products, you contribute to the overall wellbeing of the hair and scalp. This can go a long way especially if you're already seeing a few strands of gray here and there.”

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While we're on the topic of squeaky, lovely, shiny hair, it's essential that you avoid harsh hair treatments and hair styling products. Sure, hitting the bleach and getting all permed up might look pretty cool, but it's no secret that it can cause some considerable damage in the long run.

“Heat styling tools and chemical treatments can damage follicles, which can potentially accelerate graying.” says Birch. “Treat your hair gently by properly moisturizing it with products like oils and serums, and avoid applying unnecessary stress to it. This is one of the easiest ways to keep your hair nice and healthy.”

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It's not just about what products you put (or don't put) on your hair that can affect it. Having a diet rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and proteins can also potentially slow down the whole graying process. You are what you eat, and all that.

“A diet rich in antioxidants, vitamins such as vitamin E, C, and B-complex, and minerals like copper and zinc may help protect hair follicles from oxidative stress, which is linked to graying.” says Birch. “Foods like fruits, vegetables, nuts, and whole grains are good choices. Ensuring a balanced diet with sufficient protein intake is crucial for maintaining healthy hair. Hair is primarily made of a protein called keratin, so a lack of protein in your diet might impact its health.”

Like a cigarette every once in a while? Well, if you're worried about going gray, it might be time to toss out those Marlboros for good. Giving up smoking can be tough, but it will save your hair (and your bank balance) in the long run.

“There is plenty of scientific research that suggests that exposure to environmental toxins and pollutants, including those from cigarette smoke, may contribute to premature graying,” says Birch. “Avoiding smoking and minimizing your exposure to pollution might help slow down the process.”

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And back to the topic of stress. While going gray because of it can sound like a bit of a myth, this has actually been proven through plenty of research, including this 2020 study of mice that demonstrated how stress led their fur to go gray.

“Chronic stress has been linked to premature aging, including graying of hair.” says Birch. “It is necessary to find out the cause of stress and try to find ways to control it. Please do not forget that sometimes it’s important to make your life a little bit lighter and to do what makes you happy.”

Over the last couple of years, Platelet-Rich Plasma therapy (or PRP, for short) has been something that has been sometimes recommended to people who are worried about going gray. In theory, the treatment takes advantage of your blood's natural healing properties. Your blood is collected, put through a process called centrifugation, and injected back into your scalp. It sounds pretty promising on paper, but it's not always that straightforward.

“Although there are some debates of the efficacy of PRP, and while there have been some cases showing color being restored to hair, there is still not enough scientific evidence to support it.” says Birch. “Saying this, PRP shows some potential, but it would require a lot more research and understanding of the complex follicular pigmentation process.”

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This story originally ran on British GQ with the title “All the reasons why you're going grey, according to a very smart hair specialist”